Art on a plate
The French city of Limoges is inextricably linked to the manufacture of porcelain, writes Julia Bruce
Deep in the heart of rural France lies the relatively undiscovered region of Limousin. Named after its administrative capital and valued for their timeless elegance, Limoges porcelain pieces have become heirlooms passed down from generation to generation.
Central to the success of the Limoges porcelain trade was the discovery nearby in 1768 of kaolinite, a clay mineral long known to the Chinese. Birthplace of the painter Renoir (1841-1919), Limoges was once home to nearly fifty porcelain factories. Today there are fewer than thirty, only half of which export their products. Nevertheless, over fifty per cent of all porcelain made in France still comes from Limoges. Two of the original manufacturers, Bernardaud and Haviland & Co., today focus on tableware for everyday use.
Collectors of Limoges porcelain look for a factory mark and a date of manufacture between the late 1700s and around 1930, when the design of Limoges products became less elaborate in order to appeal to more modern tastes. In both a modern piece and an antique, the standard of the decoration can often be more important than the age. Collectors will pay premium prices for quality, hand-painted objects, especially if they are signed or marked by the artist.
Another thing to consider is whether transfers have been used. While collectors prefer hand-decorated pieces, a beautiful transferred piece can hold more value than a poorly executed hand-decorated item.
Some collectors concentrate on products from a particular manufacturer, while others focus on a broader range of Limoges items from a variety of producers. They may also move away from the quaint dinnerware toward decorative accessories such as vases, trays and tankards, which generally feature more vivid colouration and decorative gold trim.
Visitors can learn about porcelain production and design in a guided factory tour. Bernardaud, for example, is still based in its original factory, built in 1863. www.bernardaud.fr
Also worth a visit is the Musée National de la Porcelaine, otherwise known as the Musée de France, which has over 15,000 works of earthenware, porcelain and ceramics. www.musee-adriendubouche.fr
Porcelain is not all the Limousin region has to offer
CRAFTS
Beautifully housed in the wooden-beamed former refectory of a Benedictine seminary, the Cité des Métiers et des Arts (City of Crafts and Arts) in Limoges has a fine collection of items, mainly carpentry, by some of France's top craft guild members. www.cma-limoges.com
ART
Art-lovers may want to hop on a train for the 60-kilometre trip east to Vassivière, an island on a man-made lake which is home to the International Centre of Art and Landscape. A sculpture park features permanent and temporary landmark works by artists such as Thomas Hirschhorn, Michelangelo Pistoletto and Andy Goldsworthy. You can also take a 'bâteau-mouche' ride on the lake. www.ciapiledevassiviere.com
ENAMEL
Limoges is also home to the Maison de l'émail - the Enamel House - a 500 square metre space where you can discover how the region's other famous material is used in the production of beautiful objects. Enamel manufacture is centuries older than porcelain. (A Limoges enamel crucifix dating from around 1200 was found under a heavy stone near Salisbury Cathedral.) The Enamel House has permanent and temporary exhibits, and you can even join a class and make your own medallion. www.enamel-house.com
PAPER
Another worthwhile side-trip is to the Moulin du Gôt paper mill in Saint-Léonardde- Noblat some 20 kilometres east of Limoges. Paper-making in the Limousin area goes back five centuries, aided by the unique quality of the River Vienne and its tributaries and the ready supply of hemp and linen used in the production process. A visit to the Moulin du Gôt takes in these ancient techniques as well as printing and graphic arts, and you can buy some exquisite samples of paper made on the premises. www.moulindugot.com
LEATHER
About 25 kilometres west of Limoges, the town of Saint-Junien is known for its leather goods. In a visit to one of the few remaining workshops (there were once two dozen), you can see how centuries-old know-how and the latest laser techniques are combined to produce leather bought by some of France's top fashion houses, including Hermes, Dior and Yves St Laurent.
