SETTING Vittoria’s is coming close to celebrating 40 years and it’s easy to see why this neighbourhood trattoria is so popular with locals and visitors alike. The atmosphere is effervescent and friendly as owner Tony Crolla and his staff. The interior of warm tones hides a higgledy-piggledy space with room for boisterous celebrations in a separate dining room, to tables for early family dining or a quick pasta and glass of wine on the way home. It’s a place for first dates, teenagers grabbing a pizza while mum and dad have a more relaxed meal from the classic Italian menu.

FOOD The food at Vittoria’s is a cross culture blend of dishes straight from mama’s kitchen and solid British staples. Tony knows what his customers want and the menu reflects this. Steaks are excellent, pasta is modern as well as traditional juxta-positioned with homely comfort food. Where else in Edinburgh can you find sausage, egg and chips sitting comfortably next to Scaloppina alla Milanese?

There is no hesitation with our choice; as always he has the carbonara, a good benchmark of a kitchen to make an authentic version without the cream or mushrooms. For me – Insalata Caprese. The mozzarella is made in East Lothian by a young Italian couple and, in my very humble opinion, is some of the best outside Italy. Fresh basil flavours the white bauble, served with sun-dried tomatoes, a handful of olives and a good glug of fruity olive oil. You wouldn’t believe his main; it must have been a mammoth pig that went into Stinco (that’ll make the kids giggle) Arrosto, a ham shank with borlotti beans in sugo al pomodoro. On the other hand, my rack of lamb is a more sedate affair; even so, I still had to gnaw the remnants from the tiny bones.

That’s the thing about Vittoria’s, no one will judge you for using your fingers to get to that last evasive morsel. I think Tony Crolla has got it right – Scottish produce at sensible prices for everyone to enjoy. Drop in for lunch, you can pre-order if you’re short on time.