SETTING I know it’s a bit of a cliché, but Vittoria’s somewhat of an institution when it comes to Edinburgh’s Italian restaurants. Tony Crolla’s latest addition is in the heart of the Old Town on George IV Bridge right in the hurdy-gurdy of the tourist trail. But don’t be disheartened, you will leave replete and without a huge crack in your credit card. The revolving door of this majestic building spins you into a tardis of a space. Upstairs is a relaxed urban chic affair for more intimate dining while downstairs has a boisterous and exuberant atmosphere, great for family celebrations.

FOOD The menu is a clever blend of traditional, homemade Italian staples that Mama would make too more innovative dishes - all superbly executed. The pasta choices are sure-fire winners from the oven-baked cannelloni to the seafood lasagne with its seductive salmon and seafood mix. It would simply be bad manners not to be tempted by the pizza; a tangy, herby tomato sauce smeared across the crispy base, molten cheese topped with ultra fresh vegetables. The ‘Chef’s Specials’ do offer something special - wild organic venison with carrots in a red wine and redcurrant jelly that’s a rich, sumptuous pleasure. So tender, it flakes from the bone with ease and is so soft it hardly needs chewing; sautéed potatoes are aromatic from the rosemary, another complementary herb for the meat.

Puddings are indulgent with banoffie pie taking the top spot for immorality, then there’s ice cream - an indecent selection of icy delights from single scoops to overflowing sundaes. Those who prefer a savoury ending to the meal, there’s a rather fine cheeseboard with delicate crumbling goats’ cheese, creamy blue veined dolcelatta and tantalizing Pecorino. The menu is vast and diverse, pleasing every generation from granny and grandpa to mum and dad, right down to the sprogs, who have their own menu. For each adult who has at least one main course from the ‘A la Carte’ menu, one accompanying child can eat from the kids menu for £1; this £1 is donated to the Radio Forth Cash for Kids Appeal.

The staff are larger and life characters, nothing is a problem, no mozzarella ball too small, no parmesan shavings too big – they will happily go out of their way to accommodate, it really is service with a twinkly smile – attentive and yet unobtrusive, you certainly won’t find anybody inappropriately ramming their pepper grinder into your tortellini without asking permission first.