SETTING I suggest that you actually spend the night at the Rocks and let the Findlay’s take care of you from the moment you arrive until you leave. There are twelve bedrooms all with stunning sea views from Bass Rock right round the bay to Dunbar Castle and the harbour where you can watch the fishing boats pootle back and forth. If the weather is warm, start your evening with a local beer or glass of fizz out in the beer garden. Watch the seabirds dip and dive into the surf before heading into the homely and warm restaurant. Father and daughter Jim and Nicola Findlay have worked hard at the Rocks, winning a plethora of awards. Jim’s wife, Sue, is an accomplished artist and it’s her watercolours that adorn the menus, while son James waits at table.

FOOD There is always fresh fish and seafood on the menu, whether it’s a huge bowl of bouillabaisse, thumb-sized queenies (tiny little scallops) decorating glistening sea bass or the Rocks’ infamous whole lobster, great with fat chips and a dollop of hollandaise; for a treat have a bottle of house bubbly at under 25quid! The daily specials’ board features a fantastic selection of local goodies; from the mussels and trout to game and some excellent steaks.

Very retro I know, but whitebait seems to be making a comeback. The little fish, lightly devilled, arrive in a tangled, crunchy heap – lovely! Glistening blue-black mussel shells hide their plump, orangey treasures, in velvety cream sauce. The wild guinea fowl has a wonderfully crisp skin, a naughty pleasure revealing succulent flesh. My venison, in three thick slices, leans seductively against fondant potato slab. The kitchen certainly knows its meat.

If you hear Jim recommending a pudding, order it there and then to avoid disappointment. I missed out on the white chocolate sauce layered with local berries; other lucky diners had devoured it all by the time I came to order dessert!