SETTING The Smoke Stack is a well-loved and frequented Edinburgh institution. Halfway down Broughton Street, there is no mistaking this restaurant with its wrought metal signs. Inside the atmosphere is warm and cosy with well-spaced tables and staff who have infectious smiles. Music is laid back, which is what you’d expect from this char grill bistro.

FOOD We sip Pimm’s, biting our lips in indecision over the menu. Ribs, mussels, pâté, molten goat’s cheese? All sound delicious, but I’m drawn to a light tartlet of smoked salmon and Rhona opts for the red pepper hummus. Ripples of pale pink fish, folded over crème fraîche in a flower-like filo basket is an excellent summer starter. The cracked pepper adds a fragrant warmth. Hot pitta is slavered with the vibrant, very garlicky dip and we finish in lickerty spit time.

We don’t have to wait long for our mains; my char grilled chicken breast is huge; wafts of aniseed from the tarragon sauce makes me drool. The tuna is equally large, slightly pink as requested (I’d have it nice and rare but it wasn’t my dish was it?), wasabi mayo gives a horseradishy kick to the fish. We share a salad packed with Roquefort, bacon and pine nuts that goes well with my juicy chicken and the meaty tuna. Steaks seem to fly out the kitchen, which isn’t surprising; it’s what the Smoke Stack is famous for - Borders, certified beef.

We struggle with our puddings, and even asking for a small sliver of Key lime pie is daunting. It has the requisite amount of tartness to sweetness and although Rhona groaned at the size of her white chocolate cheesecake with warm butterscotch sauce, she threatened to lick her plate clean!