SETTING The Macdonald Marine Spa and Golf hotel has a fantastic location in North Berwick, overlooking the West Links golf course and Firth of Forth: from the lounges, terrace and dining room there’s a panoramic seascape of three islands, Fidra, Craigleith and Bass Rock. With this fine view the Craigleith Restaurant blends Victorian features with sumptuous taffeta drapes, dark wood tables and high backed chairs.

FOOD Head Chef John Paul McLachlan (Medaille d’Or, Scottish Hotel Awards 2009), presents a daily changing menu of modern Scottish cuisine featuring seasonal organic produce, with lamb, beef, seafood, vegetables, fruit and cheese sourced from east coast farms and fishing ports. We begin with homemade, light-as-air sundried tomato and olive bread and a surprise amuse bouche: a delectable wild field mushroom cappuccino in an espresso cup. For my appetiser I select smoked salmon, prawn and hand-picked crab – a fresh tasting, fish terrine salad. My partner’s crottin of goat’s cheese is an artistic colourful tower over provencale vegetables, topped with wilted spinach. With a superior choice of wines by the glass, we opt for different glasses – Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz and Pinotage – to suit each dish, rather than sharing a single bottle.

Our main course is pan seared fillet of wild turbot – delicate white flakes falling off the fork, on a bed of creamy mash and crowned with a bundle of baby asparagus. A perfect portion size too, to allow space for pudding: a refreshingly crisp Granny Smith apple parfait jazzed up with gin and vanilla sauce, and a platter of Scottish and French cheese with tiny mouthful-sized Arran oatcakes and grapes. From our ice-cold champagne aperitif in the bar beforehand to the last sip of Shiraz, this distinctive dining experience is first class – friendly, professional service and seriously upmarket cuisine worthy of a 5 star hotel restaurant.

With dinner such excellent value, why not stay for a night or two to enjoy the relaxing spa or the beaches, island boat trips and golf.